HGE Contraptions (DIY hobby/NON-Business) -> Pedale Chitara Handmade / Modari Pedale / Wiring si Setup Chitare / Reparatii Ampuri

[Razvan S.]

HGE Contraptions 2in1 Booster (MXR MC401+BBE Boosta Grande clones, 165th pedal built) @vektor

 

[Razvan S.]

Inca o clona de Vemuram TSV808 @raducu

HGE Contraptions (hobby/non-business): HGE Contraptions Vemuram TSV808 Clone (166th pedal built)

[Razvan S.]

* HGE Contraptions Core Shaper EQ clone (167th pedal built)

Will most likely use two hifi OPAMPS when I have them instead of the 5532 and 072 (SMD adapted to THT, with the OPA1678 IC -> lower noise and clearer)

This is a parametric mid frequency eq (Mid knob + Mid Frequency knob), which also has Bass and Tone controls. Can also be used as a booster of sorts, in conjunction with the Volume knob.

In detail, the gain is +-16dB, the frequency sweep is about 300 to 3.3K, the Q is 2.4 in HI and 1 in LO. The beauty of this circuit is that the Q stays constant across the whole sweep and so does the gain.
Before this, there's a low gain input stage which gives a strong input signal and buffers the input while avoiding clipping at guitar levels throughout the circuit. The charge pump helps with the headroom, providing a +-9V supply so the boost levels can be reached without problems.
Following the bandpass, there's a very standard Baxandall 2 band EQ to take care of low and high frequency and add quite a lot of flexibility to the circuit when combined with the bandpass. 

[Razvan S.]

* Mythos Golden Fleece clone in a Silly Box 🐶 🐱 (HGE Contraptions 168th pedal built)

 

[Razvan S.]

Did a pickup swap (so a partial rewire) in my Carvin DC727 USA 7 string guitar.

Had to physically sand the DiMarzios (Illuminator neck + insane X2N bridge), because these Carvins before a certain year had smaller routings stock. Came out great!

 

Before:

[Razvan S.]

Carvin V3 Mods finally done after a lot of tests. Way more usable now!

If anyone that owns this actually wants a usable Carvin V3 head, I am posting the modifications below. You also have a detailed explanation.

Carvin V3 mods (stock value in brackets):
- [x] C1 - 1uF non polarized / 2.2uF on a dpdt 2 way switch (220nf)
- [x] R2 - 750ohm (2.2k)
- [x] C13 - 82nF (220nF)
- [x] R9 - 4.7k (10k)

Both at once on a switch:
- [x] R10 - 220k / 330k on a dpdt 2 way switch (220k)
- [x] R7 - 330k / 910k on a dpd 2 way switch (220k)

- [x] R65 - jumper (1.5k)

- [x] C9 - 2.2uf /82nf / 220nf / 2.2uF on a switch 3 way on-off-on (1uF)

- [x] C15 - 470uF (47uF)
- [x] R33 - 4.7k
- [x] R41 - 2.2k

Carvin V3 "Frankenstein" Mods: The Final Build
Status: Tested & Complete.

Verdict: Transforms the amp from a fizzy/stiff stock unit into a versatile monster capable of shifting between Tight Modern Metal and Liquid Doom/Sludge.
Here is the complete recipe for anyone who wants to make this amp actually usable.

1. INPUT & PRE-SHAPING (Cleaning up the Signal)
• [MOD] C1 Input Capacitor: Switchable 1uF / 2.2uF (Stock: 0.22uF)
• The Fix: Stock value cuts too much sub-bass.
• 1uF: Full-range input (great for standard tunings).
• 2.2uF: Massive "Wall of Sound" low-end extension.
• [MOD] R2 Grid Stopper: 750Ω (Stock: 2.2k)
• The Fix: Lowers the thermal noise floor slightly for a cleaner input signal.
• [MOD] C13 Cathode Bypass (V1A): 82nF (Stock: 220nF)
• The MVP Mod: This is the most critical change. It aggressively tightens the bass before the distortion stages. This prevents the amp from "farting out" or getting muddy when you crank the gain, allowing for huge plate resistors later in the chain.
• [MOD] R9 Cathode Resistor (V1A): 4.7k (Stock: 10k)
• The Fix: Stock was a stiff "Cold Clipper." 4.7k biases the first tube warmer and hotter, giving a richer, more organic drive texture right from the start.

2. GAIN STRUCTURE & VOICING (The "Jekyll & Hyde" Personality)
• [MOD] R10 Plate Resistor (V1A): Switchable 220k / 330k (Stock: 220k)
• 220k: Stock value. Tight, punchy, dynamic.
• 330k: High Gain Input. Adds saturation and compression immediately.
• [MOD] R7 Plate Resistor (V3B): Switchable 330k / 910k (Stock: 220k)
• 330k (Modern Mode): Aggressive, "hot-rodded Marshall" grind. Cut and definition.
• 910k (Liquid Mode): Starves the tube voltage. Creates infinite sustain, massive compression, and rolls off the harsh high-end fizz (via Miller Effect). Sounds like a tube-driven fuzz/doom channel.
• [MOD] R65 Cathode Resistor (V2): Jumper / 0Ω (Stock: 1.5k)
• The Fix: Runs the V2 gain stage "wide open" with maximum gain and zero negative feedback. Adds raw, uninhibited aggression.
• [MOD] C9 Bypass Capacitor (V2): 3-Way Switch (82nF / ~220nF / ~2.2uF) (Stock: 1uF)
• 82nF (Center): "Djent/Cut" – Ultra-tight midrange, zero mud.
• ~220nF (Side A): "Crunch" – Classic rock/metal body.
• ~2.2uF (Side B): "Sludge" – Massive low-end bloom for slow, heavy riffs.

3. POWER & STABILITY (The Engine Room)
• [MOD] C15 Main Filter Capacitor: 470uF (Stock: 47uF)
• The Fix: 10x stiffening of the power supply. This eliminates "ghost notes" and ensures the low end stays punchy and immediate, even when using the massive 2.2uF input settings.
• [MOD] R33: 4.7k & R41: 2.2k
• The Fix: Fine-tuning the bias of the later gain stages to sit perfectly in the mix between the hot front end and the power amp.

SUMMARY
This build fixes the three main complaints of the stock Carvin V3:
1. Fixed the "Fizz": The 910k plate mod and capacitor tuning smooth out the harsh treble.
2. Fixed the "Mud": The 82nF C13 mod tightens the bass where it matters.
3. Fixed the "Stiffness": The 4.7k R9 mod and C15 power filtering make the amp feel responsive and huge.

Warning: If you do these mods, ensure you discharge filter caps safely and check your bias! (Recommended bias for 6L6/EL34 is approx 60% dissipation to keep the headroom clean for the preamp distortion).

[Razvan S.]

HGE Contraptions Keeley Java Boost custom shop MP41 russian transistor version (170th pedal built).

I actually repurposed a noname pedal housing and made my own circuit clone inside haha.

A random take boosting with it before it was housed, in an FX loop switcher I did: