darkskater96 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Salut, baieti ampul azi a avut niste probleme...Deci mi am bagat chitara in el, am dat sa cant, am trecut de jumatatea volumul si gainului si brusc ampul a inceput sa scoate niste zgomote puternice pe fundal, asa cum face o pedala de delay , ca o bucla, nu stiu cum sa ma exprim.Am desfacut ampul m am uitat in interior la lampa dar nu mi am dat seama daca era arsa, l am montat inapoi tot mergea asa rau, adica de la jumatatea volumului pe ambele canale avea humul ala.Acum 10 minute am bagat chitara in amp si nu se mai aude deloc, iar pe fundal se aude un hum si daca misc arcurile din spate se aude un fel de efect, cred ca ii reverbul.Deci va raman recunoscator, nu am cunostinte in electronica, cine poate sa imi spuna ce poate sa aiba ampul si daca ar fi arsa lampa cum ar trebui sa se manifeste ampul sau cum ar trebui sa arate lampa.Daca mai trebuie ceva detalii intrebati ma ca habar nu am cum sa zic, sa fie de la difuzor dar nu cred, deoarece se aude humul ala cred ca din partea superioara.Multumesc, sper ca ma puteti ajuta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liviu.Pop Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Daca se ardea lampa cred ca nu mai auzeai nimic. De la arcurile de reverb e normal sa se auda zgomot daca le scuturi, aia nu e niciun bai, inseamna ca functioneaza. E ciudat cum s-a manifestat ampul Am si eu doua VS100 dar nu am patit asa ceva. Daca nu se manifesta permanent eu as suspecta o lipitura slabita (sau poate un condensator uscat), insa baietii cu mai multe clase in ale electronicii ar putea sa confirme banuiala mea sau sa o infirme. Astept si eu cu interes un raspuns competent. Bineinteles ca e subiectiva "depanarea" online, insa niste pareri poate ca ajuta omu' sa-si faca o idee la ce sa se astepte in continuare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkskater96 Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 acum imi merge dar tot asa rau, am un hum intr una Cand il aprind face asa un poc ,apoi cand ii dau gainul la o patrime si volumul la jumatate ,daca vreau sa urc in volum incepe sa faca asa un zgomot foarte urat pe findal, mai rau decat hum, face uneori si un fluier, ce poate sa fie? E insuportabil zgomotul si asta e pe canalul de boost , daca vreau sa ii pun o pedala in fata deja te omoara nu mai intelegi nimic, ce ar trebui schimbat la el? totusi are 15 kg cred si ii cam greu de trimis in tara, de lipit stiu sa lipesc ca mi am facut 2 pedalute dupa scheme, mai usoare.O parere ceva, ce poate sa fie? de la potentiometre?ideea e ca se aude foarte bin cat merge foarte incetul, adica mai incetul decat un amp ibanez la 3 milioane, atunci se aude minunat , cand dau mai tare parca ii alt amp...sa fie de la difuzor, chiar nu imi vine in minte.imi cer scuze pentru greseli gramaticale , de scriere , dar sjnt de pe telefon si nu pot sa scriu bine, mersi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baltazar181 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 schimba lampa.. cateodata face figuri. E un ECC83(12ax7) nu e asa scump in jur de 35 - 40 ron sau dul la un electronist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkskater96 Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 incerc cu lampa atunci, am vazut mai multe tipuri de 12ax7, macar daca o iau sa fie buna, ce imi recomandati ca am vazut ca is si diferite preturi, schimba lampa si calitatea sunetului? Is incepator in ale ampului pe lampa si nu ma pricep:)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sorin65 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) @darkskater ca are 5 sau 15 kg tot vreo 30 lei e transportul prin fan curier.. x2, of course. lampa e cea mai fiabila componenta din tot ce ai tu acolo, poate dupa suruburi ti s- a busit mai mult ca sigur un operational in preamp. pune chitara in mufa de return. ar trebui sa se auda, fara zgomotele despre care vorbesti. e asa? sau nu? lampa e doar in circuitul de overdrive, si atat. asa ca daca inchizi volumul de drive, practic mu contraza daca e nusit ceva, pt ca pe clean trebuie sa se auda. o lamp a stricata se albeste in partea superioara, e posibil sa trebuiasca s-o schimbi peste 20 de ani. daca in return ai chitara, eventual cu un booster intercalat, functionarea defectuasa persista, inseamna ca e stricat circuitul integrat final sau o componenta aferenta. exista o probabiliate sa fie defecta si sursa de alimentare. asta ti le spun aveugle, dar cineva priceput va pierde 90% din timpul de depanare cu dezmembrarea si pusul la loc in cutie. Edited June 7, 2013 by sorin65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkskater96 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 da, ai dreptate ,deci buca aia care se aude asa, se aude numai pe canalul de boost.Daca il pun pe canalul prim sau in power amp in ,nu se aude nici un bazait.Lampa are asa in partea de sus o dunga argintiu- albuie , cam de 1 cm.Pe partea inferioara, nu unde is circuitele ii asa un fel de praf albui in unele locuri.Daca las nota mi de exemplu cam dupa un 7 secunde bucla aia imi acopera sunetul si se aude numai fluieratul acela. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkskater96 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 The most important thing to remember about valves is that they have an indeterminate lifespan, rather like a lightbulb. There is no real way of saying categorically what sort of life they will have. Generally speaking, if used two or three times per week, a set of EL34 or 5881 output valves will last 18 to 24 months. Pre-amp valves [ECC83/12AX7] as a rule have about double the life of the power valves, so about 3 to 4 years under normal playing conditions. As different makes of valve operate at different bias settings you should always ensure that matched power valves are used, otherwise their life will be drastically reduced. When the time comes to change the power valves you will definitely know as valves only have two states, working or not working. The most common symptom of valve failure is the blowing of the HT fuse. On some occasions after replacing the fuse the amp will work for a while but will blow the fuse again when it reaches full working temperature. This is the first warning sign that a valve is failing. If both the HT and mains fuses blow, then blow again on replacement, then it is pretty definite that at least one of the valves has short circuited and needs replacing. Although not absolutely essential, I always recommend that the entire set of power valves should be changed together [two in a 50 Watt model and four in a 100 Watt]. Where pre-amp valves are concerned, the most common fault is microphony : a high pitched whistling noise which is apparent all the time, whether anything is plugged into the amp or not. This is often caused by the first pre-amp valve in the chain and can sometimes be cured by simply swapping pre-amp valves around. Other pre-amp valve related problems include; lack of volume, loss of bottom end, thinning of the sound and loss of all top-end frequencies. Again it is best to replace all the pre-amp valves at the same time. Where the higher end Valvestates which contain pre-amp valves are concerned, the symptoms of valve failure will be similar except that the older range [models 8040, 8080, 8100, 8200 and 8280] only had the valve operational in the boost channel, whereas in the new models [VS65R, VS100R, VS100RH and VS265] the pre-amp valve operates on all channels. Occasionally older EL34 power valves could go microphonic, where a low frequency oscillation, quite different from pre-amp valve microphony, would start, particularly if you tapped the amp casing. Here again it is the amp telling you it needs a new set of valves. Am citit asta, deci cred ca ii de la lampa, imi dau comanda de o lmpa ceva mai buna luni, si va zic daca am rezolvat ceva.Eu am luat ampul second si nu am schimbat niciodata lampa, si inauntru se cam incalzeste din ce vad si miroase a ars, deci cred ca ii lampa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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