Sodom Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 am si eu un prieten care ar vrea sa isi faca un corp ceva de genu RR ... ce lemn recomandati ? ce ar fi mai bun ? scz. stiu ca mai sunt topicuri de genu da am gasit decat 1 si am zis sa mai intreb ..
Guest anghelescu Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 pai depinde...de ex un lemn "ieftin" si bun e alder... mahon e un all-time classic guitar wood ofera sustain mai bun si ton mai cald...cauta si tu pe google...gasesti informatii cacalau
Cosu Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 e o problema destul de urata cu chitarele in forma asta. RR-ul este o chitara destul de greu de balansat si unele modele sufera de sindromul picajului (in nas sau in fund). Pe scurt unul dintre capete "atarna" mai greu si chitara tinde sa fie un fel de hopa-mitica in bratele chitaristului. Cand stai cu ea in brate e mai putin sesizabil dar daca umbli cu ea atarnata de gat e mai trista situatia. Traditional (adica asa cum le face Jackson) se fabrica din plop (aka poplar) basswood (aka tei) si alder (aka arin). Toate sunt lemne cu densitate ceva mai mica. Parerea mea (formata din ce am citit de ici si de colo) e sa stea departe de mahon. Mai e si problema tonului dorit si a disponibilitatii lemnului. Aici nu ma bag.
Guest zzz Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 Iti sugerez sa te uiti pe site-ul www.warmoth.com la descrierea proprietatilor tonale ale diferitelor tipuri de lemne...pentru detalii suplimentare poti trage o privire si pe www.lmii.com ...daca vrei sa iti comanzi ceva de pe site-urile astea ai toate sansele ca rezultatul sa fie unul foarte bun, cel putin din punct de vedere al lemnului.. ...daca vrei sa alegi lemne din romania , asta o sa te limiteze cam la urmatoarele specii:paltin, artar, tei...sau daca ai mare grija de chitara ta poti folosi lemnul cel mai indicat din toate punctele de vedere tonale si anume molidul...favorizeaza cea mai larga gama de frecvente si este cel "rezonant" si mai bogat in armonici dintre toate speciile de lemn...exista o singura firma mai vestita care face chitari electrice din molid si anume Parker Guitars...el nu prea este folosit de celelalte firme in producerea chitarilor electrice, deoarece este FOARTE, FOARTE moale ....se produc zgarieturi si adancituri in lemn si daca te uiti urat la el... Dar din moment ce te-ai gandit la o forma RR ma gandesc ca nu prea vrei sa canti acasa cu chitara , ci vrei sa si iesi in lume cu ea ca sa fii remarcat prin forma deosebita a ei...asa ca varianta cu molidul cam cade(nu de alta dar dupa cateva luni de "constant touring", chitara va arata ca dupa accidentul de la Cernobal... )...o a doua varianta ar fi paltinul, care are un sound foarte bright si prin faptul ca este un lemn foarte dur faciliteaza rezonanta in gama frecventelor inalte si estompeaza frecventele joase...rezultatul va fi o chitara cu un sunet foarte bright foarte buna pentru solistica insa nu va fi buna deloc pentru ritm sau pentru metale (probabil pentru asta o solutie ar fi dozele active..)..Si a treia variata ,si anume teiul , prezinta proprietati tonale demne de luat in considerare si alte avantaje precum ar fi greutate scazuta, si pretul relativ mic...insa va fi mai greu de lacuit decat paltinul sau molidul...Sa ma crezi pe cuvant in privinta tuturor lucrurilor pe care ti le-am descris mai sus, pentru ca sunt ani buni de cand ma ocup cu studiul proprietatilor tonale ale diferitelor specii de lemn...nu am intrat in detalii foarte mari pentru ca sunt sigur ca le vei gasi pe net daca le cauti putin...Sper ca ti-am fost de ajutor...Sanatate si numai bine, si sper sa iasa un corp de chitara reusit...
denis_symbiotic Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 Eu zic sa o faca din plop pt ca e un lemn usor si cu rezonanta buna plus ca este si usor de gasit spre deosebirede mahon sau alte tipuri de lemn. Ron Jarzombeck de la Spastic Ink si Watchtower isi face ghitarile dein lemn de plop. Cel mai bine ar fi sa se documenteze serios.
Guest zzz Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 Eu zic sa o faca din plop pt ca e un lemn usor si cu rezonanta buna plus ca este si usor de gasit spre deosebirede mahon sau alte tipuri de lemn.Ron Jarzombeck de la Spastic Ink si Watchtower isi face ghitarile dein lemn de plop. Cel mai bine ar fi sa se documenteze serios. Ai mare dreptate Denis...imi cer scuze ca am uitat de plop...
Sodom Posted July 18, 2007 Author Posted July 18, 2007 el ar vrea un lemn de esenta tare ... am gasit printr-un topic pe aci nucul cum e ? ar merge .. si vrea sa cante si metale
Radu i Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 (edited) Walnut (Juglans nigra):Luxurious coloring and grain patterns are the earmarks of Walnut. Whether using an oil finish or a deep clear gloss, the pleasing appeal of Walnut always delivers. This is an open grained wood. Walnut is in the heavy weight category but it's not quite as heavy as hard maple. It has a similar sound to hard maple but it tends not to be as bright. Warmoth Edited July 18, 2007 by Radu i
misu Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 eu zic sa foloseasca lemn de tei este pt ca este usor si se gaseste prin toate tamplariile.
Guest p_aciulea Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 http://mibu.16.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=431 ia sa se documenteze
Guest costi iorga Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 Sa incerce originalul: Body de Alder si coperta de Latch Maple...
Radu i Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Trebuie sa ai cont http://mibu.16.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=431 ia sa se documenteze
Sodom Posted July 19, 2007 Author Posted July 19, 2007 Trebuie sa ai cont si nu primesc mail de activare
Cosu Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Asta e continutul postului minune: Alder (Alnus rubra):Alder is used extensively for bodies because of its lighter weight (about four pounds for a Strat® body) and its full sound. It's closed grain makes this wood easy to finish. Alder's natural color is a light tan with little or no distinct grain lines. Alder has been the mainstay for Fender bodies for many years. It looks good with a sunburst or a solid color finish. Because of its fine characteristics and lower price, Alder is our most popular wood and it grows all around us here in Washington State. Ash (Fraxinus americana): We have two very different types of Ash: Northern Hard Ash and Swamp Ash (Southern Soft Ash). Northern Hard Ash is very hard, heavy and dense. A Strat® body will normally weigh 5 lbs. and up. It's density contributes to a bright tone and a long sustain which makes it very popular. It's color is creamy, but it also tends to have heartwood featuring pink to brown tints. The grain pores are open and it takes a lot of finish to fill them up. Swamp Ash is a prized wood for many reasons. It is a very musical wood offering a very nice balance of brightness and warmth with a lot of "pop". It is a fairly light weight wood which makes it easily distinguishable from Hard Ash. A Strat® body will normally weigh under 5 lbs. Many of the 50's Fenders were made of Swamp Ash. The grain is open and the color is creamy. This wood is a very nice choice for clear finishes. Swamp Ash is our second most popular wood. Basswood (Tilia americana): This is a lighter weight wood normally producing Strat® bodies under 4 lbs. The color is white, but often has nasty green mineral streaks in it. This is a closed-grain wood, but it can absorb a lot of finish. This is not a good wood for clear finishes; It is quite soft, and does not take abuse well. Soundwise, Basswood has a nice, warm tone. Bubinga (Guibourtia demeusei): A very strong stiff wood used primarily for bass necks and in laminations. Used by Rickenbacker for fretboards and Warwick for bodies. As a bass neck, it brings bright midrange and a thick well defined bottom. Because of its weight it is best suited for laminate tops. Goncalo Alves (Astronium fraxini folium): Very dense smooth texture with a waxy fast feel - no finish required. Color is tan with darker chocolate stripes (used by Smith & Wesson for pistol grips). Articulate clean warm tone. Primarily used as a Neck wood and laminate body tops. Koa (Acacia koa): This very beautiful wood comes exclusively from Hawaii making supply very limited. It's weight varies somewhat from medium to heavy and is an excellent tone wood for bass guitar bodies. Koa has a warm sound similar to mahogany, but with a little more brightness. Like walnut, this wood may be oiled, but generally will look its best sprayed clear. Koa is sometimes available in flame figure. Figured Koa (Acacia koa): Koa is exceptionally beautiful when it develops the flame figure. Available only in thin laminate tops and sometimes available in higher grades. Korina, Black (Terminalia superba): It's true name is Limba from Africa. Black Korina is usually a medium weight wood, but we occasionally get light weight pieces. The tone is very similar to Mahogany. It features a very handsome olive color with black streaking. This is a great wood for bass guitars. Korina has a naturally waxy feel to it. Oil finishes work well on this wood. Korina, White (Terminalia superba): It's true name is Limba from Africa. White Korina is a medium to heavy weight wood. The tone is very similar to Mahogany. It features a light yellow/green color which looks great with a yellow tinted finish. This is a great wood for bass guitars. Korina has a naturally waxy feel to it. Oil finished work well on this wood. Lacewood (Cardwellia sublimis): Lacewood is imported from Australia. It's a medium weight wood. The grain design ranges from very small spots to very large spots which create its signature reptilian appearance. Lacewood looks best in the form of a bookmatched laminate top, but is also available for solid bodies. The tone is similar to Alder. Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis): We use African Mahonany in our production. It is a medium to heavy weight wood with a Strat® body averaging 5 lbs. or more. Mahogany is a fine grained wood with good musical properties. The tone is warm and full with good sustain. The grain is easy to fill. Looks good with clear or transparent red finish. Maple (Acer saccharum-Hard Maple) (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple): We offer two types of Maple: Eastern Hard Maple (hard rock maple) and Western Soft Maple (big leaf maple). Hard Maple is a very hard, heavy and dense wood. This is the same wood that we use on our necks. The grain is closed and very easy to finish. The tone is very bright with long sustain and a lot of bite. This wood cannot be dyed. It looks great with clear or transparent color finishes. Western Maple grows all around us here in Washington state. It is usually much lighter weight than Hard Maple but it features the same white color. It has bright tone with good bite and attack, but is not brittle like the harder woods can be. Our flame ( fiddleback) and quilted bodies are Western Maple. This type of maple works great with dye finishes. Flame Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple): Flame, Fiddle-Back or Tiger maple all generally refer to curls (or stripes) as illustrated here. Flame can be tight, wide, straight or crooked. While we can supply solid 1-piece or 2-piece flame bodies, this wood is most beautiful in the form of a bookmatched laminate top. Quilted Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple): Quilted maple is a more rare form of figure occurring mostly in western maple. It is distinguished by its billowing cloud or even popcorn appearance. This figure can vary from large, wide billows to tight small blisters. As with flame, quilted maple is most often used as a bookmatched top, but is sometimes available as 1-piece or 2-piece solid bodies. Spalted Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple): This wood is actually the product of a dead or decaying tree. The dark lines are created by fungal attack. This wood is soft and punky and is only used as a laminate bookmatched top on flat top bodies with binding. Spalt is difficult to finish as it soaks up a lot of finish. Don't even think about doing a "do-it-yourself" finish on this stuff. Each piece of Spalted maple is quite unique. It looks awesome with a tobacco burst finish. Birdseye Maple (Acer saccharum-Hard Maple): This figure is only found in the eastern hard maple trees. Birdseye does not usually run deep in the boards, so solid bodies are not available. As a bookmatched top it can be quite striking. Burl Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple): This is a very busy looking wood usually with a lot of porosity and bark inclusions. We only use this wood for bookmatched tops. Epoxy is used to fill all voids. Burl looks best finished in a natural clear gloss. Padouk, African (Pterocarpus soyauxii): Bright vivid orange color which oxidizes to a warm brown with use. This waxy feeling wood has an open grain texture similar to rosewood and a tone similar to maple. It is very stable in use and requires no finish — feels great to play on. Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera): This is another standard body wood having been used by many companies over the years. Due to the grey/green color, this wood is used only when solid color finishes are to be applied. It's weight generally runs about one half pound more than Alder. Tonally, it is similar to Alder as well. Poplar is a closed grain wood that accepts finish well. Rosewood (Dalbergia baroni): This is our heaviest wood with Strat® bodies always weighing in at well over 6 lbs. We've used several different species depending on availability, but predominantly we use Palisander Rosewood. The tone is warmer than maple, but the highs seem to be dampened somewhat by the oily nature of the wood. Finishes can be a little difficult to apply. Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra): This is "Beautiful" wood with a wide range of colors, grain and patterns available in thin bookmatched laminate tops only. We have a very limited supply and it is very expensive. Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis): Supplied quartersawn, this is the same wood used for acoustic guitar tops. Lightweight but stiff, the color is creamy white. Available for laminate tops only. Walnut (Juglans nigra): Walnut is a heavy weight wood, but not quite as heavy as hard maple. It has a similar sound to hard maple but it tends not to be as bright. Walnut is very beautiful with open grain. Oil finishes work great on Walnut. Figured Walnut (Juglans nigra): The figure is predominantly flame. It is only available as a bookmatched laminate top. This is a very handsome wood. Wenge (Millettia laurentii): Wenge features black and chocolate brown stripes. It is usually quartersawn to yield straight grain – similar to Zebrawood, but black. Zebrawood (Microberlinia brazzavillensis): This is another heavy weight wood with very open grain. It has a distinctive look with light and dark brown stripes. Zebrawood is more commonly used as a laminate top. Its weight and sound are similar to hard maple.
siw Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Prietenul ala al tau se leaga la cap rau de tot. Daca vrea sa isi faca el corp de chitara si problema lui este alegerea lemnului (adica ceva de baza, nu de finete), mai bine sa isi cumpere un corp de chitara de firma. Ce vrea sa faca e pierdere de vreme. Mai bine ar petrece timpul ala studiind la chitara. Nu mai pun la socoteala faptul ca isi distruge degetele. Totusi, daca nu renunta la idee, grija mare la gradul de uscare al lemnului. Este extra important. Va gasi destul de greu lemn uscat cat trebuie.
Sodom Posted July 19, 2007 Author Posted July 19, 2007 da-i un sfat despre ce s-a intrebat in topic nu altele daca nu mai bine abtine-te te rog
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